Let Them See Cake

Momofuku Chocolate Cake

Apologies, apologies. I still don’t have my camera cord, so I am on a break from posting new recipes. However, I have some stored pictures that I thought some of you might enjoy. Namely, the above picture of amazing cake. The first weekend in December, I spent in New York City visiting my brother and his girlfriend, Claire. They live on the Lower East Side, amidst a delectable collection of David Chang restaurants. Our first night in the city, we waited until midnight to eat dinner at Momofuku Ssam.  And it was worth it.  Every bite of pork belly in my steamed bun convinced me of that fact.  A short walk down the hall is Momofuku Milk Bar, where I first encountered this counter:

momofuku cookiesDon’t let the crazy names fool you – compost cookie, cornflake marshmallow chocolate chip cookie, and corn cookie are some of the best mouthfuls you’ll ever meet.  In addition to cookies, the Milk Bar serves cakes and pies.  “Crack Pie”, in case anyone’s wondering, is made of butter, brown sugar, heavy cream, corn flour, and a hint of nutmeg.  Apt name, I’d say.  I am of course not the first to laud the offerings of the Milk Bar – Adam of Amateur Gourmet named the Banana Cake his 2nd best dish of 2008, and Serious Eats gives you the full run-down of the offerings, but I am here to reinforce the ruling of ‘truly awesome’.

The cake you see above is a chocolate fudge cake with yellow cake icing.  That’s about all I can say, until you taste it.  The ‘cake’ part melds into the ‘icing’ part so it is just one incredible bite of soft, creamy, vanilla-and-chocolate-flavored scrumptiousness.  Like I said, you have to taste it.  If I haven’t convinced you to go, read Frank Bruni’s article.  He really knows what he’s talking about.  I just pretend to.

Holiday Hors d’Oeuvres

palm-final1 ‘Tis a sad day when a food blogger forgets her camera’s USB cord at her parents’ house (think over the river and through the woods for an hour), especially on a Barefoot Bloggers Bonus Recipe day!  I was all prepared to show you the beautiful-looking Savory Palmiers that I made for my parents’ Christmas party.  They came out so perfectly – in the characteristic elephant ears shape, and run through with holiday colors: red sun-dried tomatoes, green basil pesto, and snowy white goat cheese.  I was wildly impressed with Becky’s  oh-so-appropriate pick!  

First fold

I did all the prep work for these early in the day on Saturday, photographing diligently, of course.  Then I left instructions for the caterers to slice the dough in very thin perpendicular cuts, then to cook them cut-side-up on a baking sheet.  After having showered, primped, powdered, and dressed in my holiday best, I came downstairs just in time to see a sheet of 2 inch pastry bricks going into the oven!  I caught them just in time and saved the party goers the need for charger-sized plates and large bread knives to eat my hors d’oeuvre! 

In any case, I apologize for the delay with pictures, but of course you can always see how they are supposed to look by visiting the other Barefoot Bloggers’ blogs.  If I could give one piece of advice with this recipe (besides making sure you prepare the slices correctly!), it would be to NOT skimp on the filling.  More pesto! More goat cheese!  More sun-dried tomatoes!  Otherwise you won’t taste all the great flavorful goodness.  Also – use good all-butter puff pastry (Dufour is excellent) since the pastry is more than half the mouthful!  Enjoy…

pesto-spread

Savory Palmiers, from Barefoot Contessa Back to Basics (makes 60 hors d’oeuvres)

2 sheets frozen puff pastry dough
1/4 c. prepared pesto
1/2 c. crumbled goat cheese, such as Montrachet
1/4 c. finely chopped sun-dried tomatoes in oil, drained
1/4 c. toasted pine nuts
Kosher salt

 

Lightly flour a board and carefully unfold one sheet of puff pastry.  Roll the pastry lightly with a rolling pin until it’s 9 1/2 x 11 1/2 inches.  Spread the sheet of puff pastry with half the pesto, then sprinkle with half the goat cheese, half the sun-dried tomatoes, and half the pine nuts.  Sprinkle with 1/4 tsp salt.

savory palmiers-filling


Working from the short ends, fold each end halfway to the center.  Then fold each side again toward the center until the folded edges almost touch. Fold one side over the other and press lightly.  Place on a sheet pan lined with parchment paper.  Repeat for the second sheet of puff pastry using the remaining ingredients.  Cover both rolls with plastic wrap and chill for at least 45 minutes.  Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

palmier slicesCut the prepared rolls of puff pastry into 1/4-inch-thick slices and place them faceup 2 inches apart on sheet pans lined with parchment paper.  Bake for 14 minutes, until golden brown.  Serve warm.

Palmiers

Risotto with Sausages

risotto-plated
I have a wonderful story to take us into the holiday season.  It begins on a dark and stormy night.  RJ had a late meeting and I was staying with my parents to avoid the long drive in the rain.  cookbooksA colleague of RJ’s, Cameron, found out that his plane was cancelled due to the weather, and RJ offered him the couch at our condo for the evening.  Though I was not there to meet Cameron, I was apparently quite the topic of conversation.  Cameron took one look at my shelves upon shelves of cookbooks and back issues of food magazines, and began to question RJ about his wife the cook. (please note that the accompanying picture shows only about a quarter of the total space taken up by these books!)

RJ has never been wildly enthusiastic about my ridiculous number of cooking tomes, but he is always supportive when the food comes out!  He must, however, have said some good things about me, because about a week after Cameron’s visit we received a package in the mail.  Cameron had sent me a new cookbook for my collection!  His note indicated that it was one of his favorites and that he was happy to share it with someone who clearly would appreciate it.  

I found that package to be one of the most heart-warming things I had ever received.  Never having met Cameron, I was quite surprised that he would send me a gift, let alone such a thoughtful one!  I was tremendously touched.  All the more so when I tried my first recipe from the book and realized that it was just as much of a gem as he said.  So, thank you Cameron.  You’re welcome at our house anytime!

Risotto with Sausages, adapted from Marcella Hazan’s Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking (serves 6)

2 1/2 c. beef broth
2 1/2 c. water or chicken broth
4 Tbs. butter, divided
1 medium onion, cut in half and sliced thin (or minced fine for a much quicker caramelization)
2 Tbs. oil
3/4 lb. mild, sweet pork sausage, cut into disks about 1/3 inch thick
1/2 c. dry white wine
2 c. Arborio rice
Black pepper
1/2 c. freshly grated parmigiano-reggiano cheese

raw-sausage

Bring the broth and the water or chicken stock to a very slow, steady simmer in a medium saucepan. Melt 3 Tbs. butter in a dutch oven or heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat. Stir in the onion and cook until the onion becomes a deep caramel color (15-35 minutes depending on the size of the sliced/diced onions). Do not let the onions burn – make sure to stir frequently!

Remove half of the onions to a small dish and add 2 Tbs. oil to the rest on the stove. Add the sliced sausage. Cook until the sausage is browned well on both sides, then add the wine, stirring to scrape up any browned bits on the bottom of the pan. When the wine has bubbled away completely [don’t you just love how Marcella writes a cookbook??], add the rice, stirring quickly and thoroughly until the grains are coated well.

risotto-broth

Add 1/2 c. of simmering broth mixture to the rice, and cook, stirring constantly, until all the liquid is gone. “You must never stop stirring,” says Marcella. When there is no more liquid in the rice, add another 1/2 c. of broth, continuing always to stir. Begin to taste the rice after 20 min. of cooking. Finish cooking the rice with broth or, if you run out, with water. It is done when it is tender, but firm to the bite. As it approaches that stage, gradually reduce the amount of liquid you’re adding. The final risotto should be served slightly moist but not runny.

Off the heat, season to taste with pepper, 1 Tbs. butter, the grated parmesan and the caramelized onions you set aside earlier. You may also choose to stir in 1 Tbs. finely chopped sage. Taste and see if you need any salt – usually the parmesan does the trick.

And to Cameron, if you’re out there reading, this is all that was left:

risotto-gone

Jumbo Cranberry-Oatmeal Jumbles

Cranberry Oatmeal Cookies

Though I have already leaked my favorite cookie recipe, this is a very VERY close second place. In addition to being highly flavorful in a subtle ‘what is that?’ sort of way, the other fabulous thing about these cookies is that they are modifyable. In fact, last night was the first time I have made them according to the directions! I have, in various iterations, left out the pecans because of a nut allergy, substituted cherries and/or orange-flavored Craisins for the dried cranberries, swapped in maple syrup for the corn syrup, and, almost always, I have ignored the call for cake flour and just used 1/4 c. regular all-purpose with 1 1/2 tsp. of cornstarch. Replacements, swap-outs and eliminations of any of the solid additives (dried fruit, chocolate, coconut, pecans) are fine so long as you maintain the 2 cup total. And I wouldn’t mess with the oats, since they are the structure and the texture of the cookie.

I should note that as cookies go, these involve fairly lengthy prep: toast the coconut, toast the pecans, chop the pecans, mix the all-purpose flour and the cake flour separately, form the dough into two-inch disks blah, blah, blah. There’s even a note suggesting that the cookies are better if you weigh all the ingredients rather than measuring with a cup. However, I can tell you that I have assembled these many times with far less attention to detail then I did last night and I haven’t yet been struck by lightning.

As I said, I’ve been making minor changes to these cookies each time I bake them based on people’s dietary restrictions and taste preferences. Honestly, though, this recipe is pretty incredible as written. The coconut is hardly noticeable unless you are sniffing for it, but it adds a distinct type of sweetness that isn’t just hum-drum brown sugar. The nuts are not overpowering, and they add a nice savory element to the bite. The white chocolate seems to be a natural continuation of the cookie batter, not a glaring sore thumb, and the cranberries are a far superior (and more universally appealling, I’ve noticed) alternative to raisins.

I made these this week for a cookie swap at work – if any of my friends from the museum are checking in, please let me know what you think of the results in the comments section!

Jumbo Cranberry-Oatmeal Jumbles, from Fine Cooking magazine, November 2005, Issue 74.
(makes 16-18 big, er, jumbo cookies)

cookie-mise6 oz. (3/4 c.) unsalted butter, softened at room temperature
1/2 c. granulated sugar
1/2 c. packed light brown sugar
1 large egg, at room temperature
1 Tbs. light corn syrup
1 tsp. pure vanilla extract
6-3/4 oz. (1-1/2 c.) unbleached all-purpose flour
1 oz. (1/4 c.) cake flour
1 tsp. baking soda
1/2 tsp. table salt
1/2 c. sweetened dried cranberries
1/2 c. rolled oats (old-fashioned, not quick-cooking)
1/2 c. pecan pieces (or coarsely chopped pecan halves), lightly toasted
1/2 c. sweetened coconut flakes, lightly toasted
3 1/2 oz. good-quality white chocolate, coarsely chopped

Position two racks near the center of the oven and heat the oven to 325°F. Line three baking sheets with parchment.

cookie-batterIn the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the butter and both sugars at medium speed until light and fluffy, about 2 minutes. Scrape the bowl. Add the egg, corn syrup, and vanilla; beat for 1 minute on medium speed. Mix in half the all-purpose flour on low speed until thoroughly combined, 30 seconds to 1 minute. Scrape the bowl. Briefly mix in the remaining half of the all-purpose flour. Sprinkle the cake flour, baking soda, and salt into the bowl and beat on low speed until well blended, 30 seconds to 1 minute. With a wooden spoon or a rubber spatula, stir in the cranberries, oats, pecans, coconut, and white chocolate.

Cranberry white chocolate oatmeal coconut pecan cookies

Using your fingertips, shape 2-oz. pieces of dough (about a scant 1/4 cup) into 2-inch-diameter disks that are 1/2 inch thick. Space them at least 2 inches apart on the parchment-lined sheets. Bake until the cookies’ edges and bottoms are golden and the centers feel dry on the surface but still soft inside, 15 to 16 minutes. When baking two pans of cookies at once, switch the position of the pans after 8 minutes for even browning. Let the cookies cool on the baking sheets for at least 1 minute before transferring them to a wire rack to cool completely. These cookies will keep for three or four days at room temperature or for several weeks in the freezer.

Cranberry White Chocolate Chip Oatmeal cookies